Sponsorship or support on this goal kindly provided by: (click on banner below)
I am looking forward to seeing the Running of the Bulls from a balcony right above the main street.
Sponsorship or support on this goal kindly provided by: (click on banner below)
First Festival Travel have kindly offered me tented accomodation near Pamplona for my first few days
San Fermin Bull Run Festival
5 - Completed
Pamplona Spain - first bullrun at 8am on July 7th and the last at the same time on July 14th
Legend:
I reckon this is one of the very first goals I ever set. I was quite young when I saw a documentary on Ernest Hemmingway, and the section of the programme that covered his 1926 novel, "The Sun Also Rises", showed quite a bit of footage of the Running Of The Bulls at the San Fermin Festival in Pamplona in Spain.
I remember thinking, one day I will do that, but over thirty years later it still hasn't happened yet. Why not? Well, I guess the only answer is that I haven't got round to it yet. But the desire to do it is still with me.
This goal really scares me! I have seen quite a bit of video from the festival and some of the things that can happen are pretty nasty. What is it about it that makes me want to do it. I suppose that I feel the need to fulfil that childhood statement, to say that I finally did it, and to feel how good it must feel to run out of the end of that tunnel into the ring, having made it safely. It must be such an incredible thrill!
Take a look at the videos below if you are not familiar with the festival:-
Related Blogs
Someone else has 100 goals too... Friday, August 1, 2008
I have a credit card with the National Australia Bank (NAB), and recently I logged in to check my balance (it wasn't too bad!), and was amazed to find this:
Looks like there are a few of us thinking along the same lines. There are a few here I would like on my list!
There are a few here that I have already done, including numbers 2, 6, 9, 11, 13, 18, 21, 40, 45, 46, 68, 69, 80 and 88.
But what is most amazing is how many there are here that match with my list, or are very similar: 3 Take the next taxi to the airport and catch the next plane to anywhere 11 bungee jump 13 skydive 14 run with the bulls at Pamplona 24 be an extra in a film 33 go to the film festival in Cannes 34 spend a night in a haunted house 42 go white-water rafting 46 ride a motorbike on the open road 47 learn to juggle 51 learn to fly a helicopter 58 ride the bigest roller-coaster in the world 61 memorise a poem 68 get a tattoo 72 meet someone with your own name 74 gallop a horse on a deserted beach 76 work in a soup kitchen on Christmas Day 78 drive along Route 66 79 experience weightlessness 98 dive with sharks
Anyone else out there written down 100 goals yet?
Isn't it ironic, don't you think? Wednesday, September 10, 2008
A little too ironic....
The author of the book "100 Things To Do Before You Die!" just died on 17th August.
Unfortunately Dave Freeman had only completed about half of the list that he and co-author Neil Teplica had created.
And how did he die? Running with the bulls in Pamplona? A terrible crash in the Paris-Dakar Rally? Or drowning in the World Bog-Snorkelling Championships? No, none of these. He fell over at home, banged his head and died!
It makes you wonder if this whole writing-a-list thing is tempting fate just a little bit too much.
It does however bring into sharp focus how short a time we all really do have, and how we never know what surprises might be waiting just around the corner. For me it re-inforces my belief that doing what you really want to do, and living the life you really want to live is extremely important, and why wait until later, get on with it now!
Here is Dave and Neil's list of 100 things to do before you die! It is all travel and event related, rather than being personal goal related, as my list of 100 goals is, but there are quite a few of the same places or events on the two lists.
1 Eight-day dog sled race, Alaska, USA 2 La Fiesta de la Virgen de la Candelaria, Argentina 3 Racing at Royal Ascot, Berkshire 4 Devil dancers of Corpus Christi, Venezuela 5 Calgary Stampede rodeo, Canada 6 Vernal equinox at Mayan pyramid, Mexico 7 Maha Kumbh Mela, Hindu pilgrimage, India 8 Academy awards, Los Angeles 9 Vienna Opera Ball, Austria 10 Running of the Bulls, Pamplona, Spain 11 Land-diving — primitive bungee jumping — Vanuatu, South Pacific 12 Bastille Day, Paris 13 La Tomatina tomato fight, Bunol, Spain 14 National Hollerin’ Contest, South Carolina, USA 15 Cannes Film Festival, France 16 World cowpat throwing championship, Oklahoma, USA 17 Nude Night Surfing, Bondi Beach, Australia 18 Paris Air Show, France 19 Mardi Gras carnival, New Orleans, USA 20 Venice Biennale art festival, Italy 21 Polo finals, Buenos Aires, Argentina 22 Cheese rolling, Gloucestershire 23 Roswell UFO site, New Mexico, USA 24 Lent Carnaval, Brazil 25 Monarch butterfly migration, Mexico 26 Navajo native American fair, USA 27 Holy week celebrations, Peru 28 Junkanoo street festival, Bahamas 29 Up-Helly-Aa fire festival, Shetland Isles 30 St Joseph’s feast day, Valencia, Spain 31 New Year’s Eve in Times Square, New York, USA 32 Voodoo pilgrimage party, Haiti 33 Chelsea Flower Show, London 34 Icarus Cup free-flying festival, France 35 Day of the Dead funeral celebration, Mexico 36 New Orleans Jazz Festival, USA 37 Tough Guy contest, Staffordshire 38 Yom Kippur at the Western Wall, Jerusalem, Israel 39 National Rodeo Finals, USA 40 Snow Festival, Sapporo, Japan 41 Oktoberfest beer festival, Munich, Germany 42 Anastenaria firewalking ceremony, Greece 43 Palio horse race, Siena, Italy 44 Testicle festival, Montana, USA 45 Extreme skiing, New Zealand 46 Monaco Grand Prix 47 Queen’s Day party, Holland 48 Ganesh Chaturthi, Hindu festival, India 49 Battle of Gettysburg re-enactment, Pennsylvania, USA 50 Fatima pilgrimage, Portugal 51 Hogmanay, Scotland 52 Art Car Weekend, Houston, USA. 53 Basque Herri Kilorak sports festival, Spain 54 Cannabis Cup, Amsterdam, Holland 55 Marathon des Sables, Morocco 56 Annual rollercoaster convention, USA 57 Autumn Love Parade, Berlin, Germany 58 New Year’s Eve on Copacabana Beach, Rio de Janeiro, Brazil. 59 Venice Carnevale, Italy 60 Hounen Matsuri fertility festival, Komaki, Japan 61 Custer’s Last Stand re-enactment, Montana, USA 62 Pushkar Camel Fair, India 63 Near Death Pilgrimage, Las Nieves, Spain 64 Paris-Dakar Rally 65 Rath Yatra: Hindu chariot festival, India 66 World Bog Snorkelling Championships, Wales 67 North American Rainbow Gathering, USA 68 Nobel Prize ceremonies, Stockholm, Sweden 69 Sanja Matsuri music festival, Tokyo, Japan 70 Beer Can Regatta, Darwin, Australia 71 Hajj and Eid-al-Adha, Mecca, Saudi Arabia 72 Oil wrestling tournament, Kirkpinar, Turkey 73 Mevlana Festival, Turkey 74 Rattlesnake Derby, Oklahoma, USA 75 Bisket Jatra, New Year, Nepal 76 Illumination of Temple of Abu Simbel, Lake Nasser, Egypt 77 Spamarama luncheon meat festival, Texas, USA 78 Fez Festival of World Sacred Music, Morocco 79 Shuni-e Buddhist ceremony, Nara, Japan 80 Namaqualand Wildflower Bloom, South Africa 81 Pageant of the Masters, Laguna Beach, California 82 Great Serengeti Migration, Tanzania 83 Incwala festival of fruits, Swaziland 84 Holi creation festival, India 85 Greenwich Village Hallowe’en Parade, New York 86 Paro Tsechu Buddhist festival, Bhutan. 87 Dragon Boat Championship, Hong Kong 88 Naadam sporting festival, Mongolia 89 Punkin Chunkin, world catapult championship, Delaware, USA 90 Kalibo Ati-Atihan masked ball, Philippines 91 Chung Yuan ghost month Festival, Taiwan 92 Homowo Tribal Celebration, Ghana 93 Burning Man Project, Nevada, USA 94 Ngan Kin Jeh vegetarian festival, Thailand 95 Tet Nguyen Dan, Vietnamese New Year 96 World Extreme Skiing Championships, Alaska, USA 97 Gay and Lesbian Mardi Gras, Sydney, Australia 98 World championship cockroach races, Australia 99 Great Singsing festival at Mt Hagen, Papua New Guinea 100 Nyepi: Silent New Year’s Eve, Indonesia
Reproduced from 100 Things to Do Before You Die: Travel Events You Just Can't Miss (Cooper Square Press) by Dave Freeman and Neil Teplica
Some new plans coming together. Thursday, March 12, 2009
Along with tackling my Australian-based goals, and taking a bit of a break, my main focus while here in Perth is to plan my upcoming travels for the next few months. It's a complicated process, as there are alot of factors to take into account. The biggest hurdle is that many of the goals have specific dates and locations, so for example, to see the Carnival in Rio I have to be there in February 2010, as I missed it this year.
In November there are three events in different parts of the world: Festival of the Dead in Mexico, the Elephant Round-Up in Thailand, and the March of the Red Crabs on Christmas Island. If there is any chance of getting to all these within the space of a few weeks, it is going to involve alot of travel and alot of expense!
But then when I started this journey, I knew it was not going to be easy, or cheap! When I made the final list of 100 goals I did not edit it in any way, and simply listed the things I really wanted to do, regardless of cost or location. That is already giving me a few challenges, but I suppose that is all part of the fun.
So over the past couple of weeks I have started to get organised, and have maps, calendars and lists covering one whole wall. I try to do a bit of planning and research each day, and feel that I am getting a bit closer to an outline idea of how the next year or so may look.
I am still looking for a well-paid driving job in the mines here, and if I get one I plan to hang around and save up some money for about three months, and set off again in July. However, I don't seem to be looking too hard for a job, and am already starting to get itchy feet, and if a job doesn't fall into my lap over the next month, I think I will be off on my travels again in early May.
This outline is by no means complete or finalised, and will be subject to all sorts of change and modification over the coming weeks and months, but it is certainly starting to take shape.
As always, there is the offer to anyone who would like to join in with any of the goals to do so: as I have always maintanied, "Happiness is not real unless shared." So if anything takes your fancy, have a look at the "Join In" page, and get in touch.
And once again, if there is any way that you think you might be able to help with any of this is any way whatsoever, please take a look at the "Help Out" page, and contact me.
Regular updates on my planning and preparation on "The Plan" page.
Past, present and future. Friday, July 3, 2009
It is often suggested that I am living an almost idyllic lifestyle, the envy of many who would love to do the same sort of thing. I would certainly not try to convince you otherwise, as I am really enjoying what I am doing, but I do often try to point out to people that this is all far from easy.
I seem to spend a disproportionate amount of my time in front of this computer, and I often feel that I am "at work" alot of the time. I have to focus on three main areas, and try to maintain some sort of balance.
I am often focussed on the recent past, when I pick photos, edit videos, and write blogs about what I have just done. But I also have to spend a huge amount of time planning the future - flights, trains, buses, accomodation, and more. It often takes a couple of days or more to plan and sort everything for a particular goal. And I have to do this as effectively as possible, as funds are pretty tight, and I need to make the money I have last as long as possible.
But while chronicling the past and planning the future, I also try to be aware of enjoying the present too, as that is really why I am doing alot of these things - to enjoy some incredible experiences. Sometimes I almost feel that I don't quite manage to absorb the full experience, because I am concentrating a bit too much on trying to video it, or get a great photo.
And so as I head to my next exciting, and somewhat nerve-wracking goal, which is one of the longest unfulfilled goals I have, I hope to really soak up the experience. I don't imagine I will be back to do this one again!
But I will also try to get some good pictures too - I think it will be quite a spectacle!
Here are just a couple of other things from the past, present and future...
PAST
My brother somewhat randomly found a new video for the song "Can You Give It" by UK group The Maccabees. I somehow manage to make two very brief appearances in the video, at time codes 2min40s, where there is a fleeting view of my back, and 3min05s, where I am hovering around at the back of the crowd of competitors. It's a shame one of my goals wasn't to appear in a music video, instead of a Hollywood movie!
PRESENT
I am back in London again, having travelled back up from Devon via the beautiful little town of Postbridge, and then along the A303 past the spectacular (and spectacularly expensive to visit) Stonehenge.
I have had a couple of busy days trying to plan another goal that I am going to try to achieve while in Spain, but took some time off yesterday to enjoy the unusually hot English summer, and went down to Hyde Park to see the recently reformed group Blur in concert.
We didn't actually have tickets, and were happy to sit outside the huge concert enclosure enjoying the sun and a few beers. An excellent last evening in London.
Many thanks to Martin and Rachel for putting up with me being on their sofa on and off for several weeks, while also having to deal with the stresses of having the whole house in turmoil as they have extensive building work completed.
FUTURE
And so after more than a month in England, it is time to move on again, and once more I feel that mixture of excitement and trepidation. It gets slightly easier each time I do it, but it is still challenging to pack the rucsac once again and leave behind the comfortable and familiar, for unknown adventures ahead.
I take the train tonight up to Birmingham, where I will have to spend the rest of the night in the airport. An early flight takes me to Biarritz in the south of France, and I can hopefully get a seat on the bus to Pamplona. I imagine it is going to be pretty busy.
I had managed to organise some tented accomodation through First Festival Travel at their campsite, about 30 kilometres out of town, for which I am very grateful. However, just yesterday I received an offer that I just couldn't refuse. "You can stay with us," said Michael of San Fermin Travel Central. He has an apartment with a balcony that overlooks the main street in Pamplona where the bull run occurs each morning. Fantastic!! Many thanks Michael, I am really looking forward to this one!
Nervous! Sunday, July 5, 2009
I set off from London late on Friday evening, when Martin and Rachel dropped me off at Euston Station. The train trip up to Birmingham didn't take long, but the night on a couch in the darkened Burger King at Birmingham International Airport seemed alot longer! It wasn't too uncomfortable, but it was difficult to sleep with the noise of the cleaners, and later, the early passengers arriving.
At 5am I went to check in, and a few hours later I was back in France again, in the lovely south west coastal town of Biarritz. I had most of the day to potter around the coast, which was very spectacular, and despite some early rain, really liked it there.
At 6pm I caught the bus direct from there down into Spain, and arrived in Pamplona at around 9pm. Michael, from San Fermin Travel Central met me at the bus station, along with Mike from San Diego, one of Michaels's clients.
I quickly dropped my bag off at Mike's apartment, and we had a bit of wander around the town, and past the bull ring, where we met Michael's wife Sofia. The meal they took me for was delicious, and I tried my best to be good company, but by midnight I was struggling. I had been on the go for over 24 hours, and from what I saw as I wandered back to the apartment with Mike, it's going to be a tiring few days here. The streets were packed with revellers, and it's still a couple of days until the festival begins. "This is nothing!" Michael told us, "wait 'til it really kicks off on the 6th!"
The next morning Mike and I went to visit Michael's apartment, which overlooks the main, long, straight section of the bull run. After the opening ceremony on the 6th, I am going to a balcony party on the morning of the 7th to watch the first running of the bulls. What a fantastic view it will be. Thanks for the kind invite Michael!
I am in two minds about this. I think it will be good to watch, and get some hints and tips. However, when I went to the cheese rolling a few weeks ago, if I hadn't run in the first race, and had seen the carnage of race 2 before I was due to run, I am pretty sure I would have had some second thoughts. I hope this isn't the case with the running of the bulls.
I have also been very lucky to get a ticket for the first night of the bull fights at the ring after the opening ceremony. Apparently these tickets are very hard to get hold of, but last night we met a lady trying to sell one ticket, as her huisband was ill and wouldn't be able to go.
This is something else I am in two minds about too. My expectations are that I am going to be a bit horrified and saddened, but I also feel that to be able to talk knowledgably on any subject, you have to have experienced it to some degree. More to follow, I imagine....
Death in the afternoon. Monday, July 6, 2009
I think I am horrified, thrilled and disturbed in equal measures after this evening's "entertainment"!
I went to see the bull fighting this evening, and tried to go with no pre-conception of what might be involved, but found that I could not shake off my expection of being horrified by what I was about to witness. And for the first half of the evening, I was quite sickened, much as I expected to be. As the first three bulls died, I had tears in my eyes, and didn't think I would last the whole evening.
But as the second half of the evening began, I put my camera and pre-conceptions away, and watched the rest of the spectacle as a sports event. And I was very surprised to find myself thrilled by the skill and courage on display.
The whole of the evening was horseback-based bullfighting, and despite the gruesome nature of the events on display, I was quite disturbed to find myself on my feet, along with all the supporters around me, cheering the amazing displays of bravery and skill.
The horses were incredible, and so obviously keen to get close to the bulls, and certainly seemed to understand what was required of them. They pranced and pawed the ground, advancing on the imposing bull with an enthusiasm that was clear to see.
In the earlier parts of the evening, I was on the side of the bull, hoping that they might get to grips with the arrogant, posturing toreadors, but when the horse dancing around bull #4 slipped over, and the bull speared it in the right flank, I was aghast, as was most of the crowd. But the guy aboard the horse made a clean getaway, somewhat disappointingly, and thankfully the horse seemed okay, and was lead limping out of the ring.
As bulls #5 and #6 died for my entertainment, I was very disturbed to find myself less and less caring for the poor, magnificent creatures, and more and more thrilled by the spectacle on display.
At the end of the evening I left the ring and headed for home, determined to try to capture my feelings in words as soon as possible, but bumped into a couple of my American friends on the way back, and of course, one thing lead to another, obviously involving more drinking, so...
I don't really think I have quite managed to find the right words to describe my divided thoughts on this experience, but I do know that I am pretty certain that I won't be going to a bullfight again. While I can now appreciate the skill and bravery displayed, it all still had a horrible, final inevitability about it that I found too hard to stomach.
I think I'll be sticking to to soccer or ice hockey from now on!
San Fermin opening ceremony. Monday, July 6, 2009
1.35pm. 6th July 2009. I've just got back to the apartment in downtown Pamplona that I am now sharing with six Americans. Last night Mike went to collect his friends from the airport, and after quick showers all round we hit the town for a few hours, then back to the apartment for a bit of a break.
At around midnight the rest of the apartment decided it was time to go back out again, as it only felt like 3pm to them, as they had just flown in from San Diego. I wisely declined the offer to join them again, as it felt like 3 in the morning to me, and they eventually returned at around 4.30am!
However, quite impressively, they all managed to be up early the next morning, and all dressed in the obligatory white and red San Fermin outfits, we headed down to the Town Hall square at around 9.30am.
The festival started today at midday, but locals had suggested we should be in the square before 10am, as it got pretty full and crazy after that.
The Tomatina Festival had prepared me well, as things were pretty wild by 10.30, and just got crazier as midday approached. The square was packed, but the atmosphere was very friendly and festive. The air was filled with champagne and sangria, and before long our white shirts were tinged completely pink.
At midday rockets were fired, and confetti filed the air, and the whole square erupted. It was awesome to see, and to be part of. A couple of us managed to climb up onto a balcony just after midday, and the pictures and video (which will follow as soon as I get a chance to edit something) only manage to capture part of the madness.
What a start to San Fermin!! And there are still bull fights and bull running to go yet!!
Live bull running video tomorrow morning.... Tuesday, July 7, 2009
After eventually making it home yesterday evening, and relaxing for an hour or two, I headed back out at around 11pm, with my six American pals, Mike and his brother Willy, Fipps and Ivy, Nick and Curtis. We got a great position in front of the big stage in the huge Plaza del Castillo, and at midnight The Gypsy Kings played a fantastic concert.
I eventually made it to bed at around 3am, much later than planned, as I needed to be up again before 6am to go to Michael's apartment for his balcony party for the first run of the bulls.
I felt remarkably good when my alarm went off, and Curtis and I got ready to head out. It's Curtis's last day, and he was going to run. I woke Mike too, who seemed pretty groggy, and he started to round up his sleepy group.
I wished Curtis well as we went our separate ways, and arrived at Michael's in good time. He has an amazing view of the main street, and had put on a great breakfast spread too.
Eventually, at 8am the rocket went off, a huge cheer went up, and the first bull run of 2009 started. The street was pretty packed, and people started running below us, long before the bulls arrived. In the distance to my right I saw the bulls come round Dead Man's Curve, and head along Estafera.
They passed below in two groups, and although a couple of people tripped over, it looked like a pretty clean run-through, and I hope it is so again tomorrow, as I plan to be down there taking part. Here's how it looked this morning:
Michael had also set up a camera above the balcony looking down into the street, and broadcast live on the web via uStream. He will be doing the same again tomorrow, and I hope to be running along the section that his camera looks at, achieving goal #49.
You can watch it live if you like here:
http://www.ustream.tv/channel/running-of-the-bulls-pamplona-2009
Once again, I can't thank Michael enough for his kindness and assistance, and use of his fantastic balcony. Don't hesitate to ontact him at www.SanFerminTravelCentral.com if you plan coming next year!
Goal 49 - run for your life! Wednesday, July 8, 2009
I had a bit of a siesta yesterday afternoon, and in the evening headed back out with my American housemates, who were hitting the town again. I had one quick beer with them, and then made my way through the packed main square to Michael's apartment, where I was due to be interviewed by John from www.BullRunning.com. John was also planning to run for the first time in the morning, and we discussed possible places to start, and tactics for survival. We pretty much came to the same conclusion as to where we might start.
After the interview, which was very easy-going and relaxed, I made my way through thronging crowds to the Cuitadela, where there is a fireworks extravaganza every evening. It is competitive, and the Italian team put on a great show.
Back at home I got a reasonably early night, along with half of my housemates, who had also finished the evening at a sensible hour. The rest of the group, however, had partied on, and at around 4.45am, were insisting on a house meeting, scheduled for 5am, from what I could gather! I don't think anyone else made it to the meeting, and I don't think I missed much, as it all went quiet again soon after that.
I had set my alarm for 6.15am, but was woken up at 6.35 by Nick, who was on his way out. I checked my phone, and was amazed to find, on the morning of one of my major goals, I had set my alarm for the evening, instead of morning!
I dressed in my red and white gear after a quick shower, and down in the busy main street I soon bumped into John. Before long the street was cleared of revellers and runners alike, and we were shepherded into a side street, and made our way back round to the town hall square, and joined the pack of runners again.
The streets outside the run were packed, and it was difficult to even get into the bull run streets, and once in we were absolutely squeezed in as the main street got a final cleaning. Tension was mounting, and there was an incredible air of expectation.
At about ten to eight we were allowed to spread back into the main street, and John and I picked a spot just before the ominously named Dead Man's Curve. Our plan was to round the corner just as the bulls started running, and stay well to the right, as the bulls come wide around the corner, and then join them for the run straight along Estafeta.
However, any sort of planning in such a crazy, excited, scared crowd like that, is hopeful at best.
The first rocket went off and a huge cheer went up, and you could really feel the fear and excitement in the air. As the second rocket went off, indicating that all the bulls are out of the pen and running, John and I joined the crowd, and pushed-shoved-jogged our way around the corner, and that was the last I saw of him. It was packed, and wild.
I made it about five yards along the street, and then tucked in at the right side, pretty much at the front of the crowd backed against the wall. People were streaming past in front of me, and the speed and panic increaced as the bulls approached. I watched in amazement as the lead animals hurtled around the corner - they were huge. As soon as they drew level with us I heard myself shouting "Go, go, go!" and ran out, along with a large part of the crowd I was with, and we joined the run. I knew that all the bulls hadn't gone past, there had only been about six or seven in the first group, and I knew there were more behind, as they must have got separated a bit earlier on.
Now running in the middle of the street, it was just a matter of making sure not to fall over, and to try to get back towards the side before the next bulls came barrelling through. But while that seemed like a good idea, it is not how things worked out at all.
In the middle of the running hoards, three or four people went down in front of me, and I jumped and veered left, and just made it around them, but was off balance. Another person fell in front of me, and I couldn't avoid him, and tripped over the top of him. I was now on the floor, pretty much in the centre of the street, and all I could do was curl up and hope for the best. I looked up, just in time to see one of the huge brown and white guiding steers thunder by just a foot or so away. I stayed curled up, as the crowd of runners was now passing over and around me, and to try to get up would be impossible. Eventually the crowd thinned a bit, and a couple of guys gave me a shout and dragged me to my feet.
I rejoined the runners, trying to quickly take stock of myself, and decided that I was relatively unscathed. I continued to follow the route with the rest of the running crowd, eventually making it into the bull ring at the end. The ring was packed, and people milled around laughing and whooping, obviously thrilled and excited to have completed the run. I too felt elated and thrilled, and somewaht lucky too. "Next time," I thought, "I really must try to stay on my feet!" That thought was immediately followed by, "What next time? I'm not doing that again. That has to be the craziest thing I have ever experienced."
In the ring the craziness continued, as for the entertainment of the packed audience, bullocks are released into the ring one at a time to run riot among the runners brave enough or foolish enough to want to stay in there. I stayed in for a few munites, but when the first bullock came charging past and the crowd surged back, I decided enough was enough, and watching would be a much better option that staying in the ring.
A wise choice, I decided, as over the next twenty minutes or so, I saw at least three people transported away on stretchers. I didn't take my camera with me this morning, but will try to get into the ring tomorrow to film some of the madness there.
So how do I feel afterwards? This was a pretty important goal for me, one that I have probably had for the longest time. I have been promising myself for over thirty years now that one day I would come and do this. Well, of course there is a huge sense of closure and achievement. I also feel proud to once again have done what I promised myself that I would do. And also incredibly thrilled. I eventually made it back home around an hour and a half after the run, and bought some breakfast supplies. As I made my sandwich, I was surprised to find that my hands still had a slight shake to them, as either the last of the adrenaline wore off.... or maybe it was just the strong cup of coffee I had just had on an empty stomach kicking in!
Thanks to all who helped make this goal an incredible reality... First Festival Travel for their kind offer of camping accomodation, Michael and San Fermin Travel Central for organising my accomodation in town, and for the use of his balcony yesterday, Mike, Willy, Fipps, Ivy, Nick and Curtis for welcoming me into their group, and to John too for joining me, at least for the initial few seconds of the run. You have all helped make this an unforgettable experience. Thank you all.
Bull ring madness. Thursday, July 9, 2009
I managed to set my alarm correctly for this morning, and was up early again. The only others up and about were Fipps and Ivy, and Fipps was planning to run with the bulls, so Ivy and I went down to the bull ring to watch the end of the run. Despite being over an hour until the start, the place was already packed, but we were lucky to find two seats in a great location.
There are two big video screens high up in the arena, and when eight o'clock finally came around, and the first rockets went off, we could watch the run live on the big screen. It was great to see the crazy progress through the streets, and as the bulls on the screen approached the ring outside, in front of us people were streaming through the tunnel into the ring.
There was a huge cheer as the bulls burst through the fleeing people, who scattered to left and right, as the bulls passed through the ring, and almost directly under us into the stalls. People continued to flow in, and eventually the gates were closed and the bullock madness began again. Check out the video below. My favourite comment of the day: Ivy - "It must be some sort of guy thing, because I don't know what would make anyone think that this is a good idea!"
Fipps enjoyed himself, and escaped relatively unscathed, tripping once and gathering a couple of scrapes as trophies of the morning. Well done!
Never say never again! Friday, July 10, 2009
We had two new arrivals at the apartment yesterday, when Mike's friends Muna and Carmen arrived in the morning, taking the occupancy total up to an impressive nine, although Kurtiss was scheduled to leave later in the day, bound for Barcelona and then home to San Diego. He had tried to leave a couple of days earlier, but he and Mike had only managed to get as far as the first bar, and Kurtiss had given up on the idea of the flight he had booked, and stayed for a few more days. He was determined to escape today.
Muna and Carmen had brought a couple of bottles of duty free, and before long shots of Jack Daniels were being handed round. I managed to stay sober enough to wander off to the square near our apartment, where there is wi-fi access, and tried to sort out my own onward travel plans, which are as yet unconfirmed. I am trying to arrange another goal while here in Spain, but things are still in the balance. More to follow, if things work out as I hope.
As the day progressed, most of the household tried to stay relatively sober, as both Mike and Willy were keen to run in the morning, and the rest of us were keen to go back to the bull ring to watch the morning entertainment again. Apparently though, we didn't quite manage to stay sober enough, as when Ivy, who would be the only person out of the original group who didn't run, suggested that she might do it, we were all impressed. So much so that Fipps, Nick and myself offered to do it again with her if she decided to do so.
And at decision time at 6.30am, Ivy decided we were going to join the run. I emptied phone and money from my pockets, and wondered what on earth I was thinking! Was I really going to go back and do this again?
We walked down to the town hall square again, and were onto the run streets by 7am. Mike and Willy, along with Muna and Carmen, headed off down towards the steep early section of the run, which is the fastest part, just after the bulls come out of the holding pen. We headed in the other direction, around Dead Man's Curve, and picked a spot against the wall that would hopefully be off the main track of the bulls, and yet offer a great view as the bulls came sweeping wide around the corner.
The plan was to have as safe a morning as possible, stay up against the wall with a buffer zone of other people in front of us, watch the bulls and faster runners go past, and then join the stragglers in relative calmness.
After picking our spot we headed back towards the town hall square, to avoid being swept out of the main street by the police when the final cleaning took place. As we waited, packed in, tension mounted, and Fipps started to feel very ill. His eyes were swollen and red, and his lips were swelling, and he thought he was having an allergic reaction to something he had eaten. His wise decision to to pull out while he still could, and when we met him back at home later, he was pleased he did. Anti-histamines that one of the others had at home had slowly fixed him.
So that left Nick and myself, along with Ivy. At around ten to eight we were released back into the main street, and we went to take up our chosen position. Again tension cranked up another notch, and at last the first and second rockets went off, and the bulls were on their way.
People streamed around the corner faster and faster, and a couple of people squeezed up in front of us, but I still had an incredible view as the bulls thundered around the corner against the opposite wall. Quite a few people went down among the bulls, and the corner was quite chaotic, but the bulls passed through cleanly and were gone. We waited a few more seconds for the chaos to die down a bit, and joined the runners, who were still streaming past.
Further along the run, we approached the closed gate across the main street, about two thirds of the way along. The gate is to prevent any bulls turning around and returning back along the run, which would be devastating. But as we drew closer there was shouting and excitement, as three of the massive, but relatively docile steers were herded along, approaching us from behind. As they approached the still closed gate, now hidden by hoards of runners who hadn't been quick enough to get through, panic broke out, and people ran in every direction as the steers reached the back of the crowd. We managed to avoid most of the trouble, as we were still a little way back, and eventually the gate opened, and order was quickly restored.
Another successful and, for all of our apartment group at least, injury-free morning. However, when we watched the re-runs on TV back at home, others had not been so lucky. The reason that the gate we were stuck behind had been closed for so long, was that one of the back-marker bulls had stopped, and turned around and gone pretty wild. Several people had come to grief, one guy being impressively tossed right over the bull's head, and then the bull had turned around and continued to attack him while he lay on the ground. I am pretty sure he was okay, but he will have a few wounds, and some amazing video of his impressive tussle with the huge creature.
As soon as I can find one, I will post a link to the Spanish network TV footage of this morning, it is quite incredible. And if you are very sharp-eyed, you can just catch a glimpse of Nick and myself on there!
Ah-ha! Found the Spanish TV website RTVE, which already has today's video online. Take a look at this craziness: http://www.rtve.es/noticias/sanfermines/2009/videos/ There will be a new lead video tomorrow after tomorrow's run, of course, but all the runs, including today's (10th July, fourth bull run 2009) will still be viewable there, I imagine.
Thanks to Nick and Ivy for causing me to do this again! Once again what a fantastically terrifying and thrilling experience. Never again? Well, who knows? I don't any more - I can see that this could be very addictive. You can add a knot for each run you have done to tassles of the red sash that you wear as part of your San Fermin outfit, and mine now proudly sports two. Apparently there are some regular runners with sashes that have so many knots that they can't fit any more on there!
Congratulations all round this morning to my flatmates. Thanks again to you all for sharing this whole amazing week with me.
Sad footnote: Unfortunately there was a death during this morning's run. "Daniel Jimeno, a 27 year-old Spaniard, was gored in the neck after one of the bulls veered into a group of runners, a Navarre regional government official told reporters." say Reuters. The occurence is more sensationally reported in UK newspaper The Sun. This is the first death for fifteen years by goring. The incident, which happened towards the end of the run, has been reported and shown many times already on Spanish TV, and is hardly even noticable on the video. It really does bring home the true nature of the dangers involved in this crazy event.
Leaving Pamplona. Saturday, July 11, 2009
After yesterday's unfortunate events during the Encierro, as the the bull run is called here, enthusiasm among our group for running again was somewhat reduced. The TV had been showing endless re-runs all day of the carnage, and by this morning had aquired video from a spectator showing the fatal moment when the bull named Capuchino gored the unfortunate Daniel Jimeno.
Mike had managed to arrange spots for five people on Michael's balcony, where I had watched the first day's Encierro, so a few of the group elected to go to the bull ring, amd a few of us headed for Michael's apartment, through the piles of debris left over from the night's partying hoards.
Only Carmen decided to run again, and we wished him well. After the bull run streets were cleared of the night's revellers, and swept clean once more, we spotted Carmen below, looking tense, but ready for action. I hope he did okay.
Five minutes before the start, Mike and I gave some thought to going downstairs, out the front door, and joining the run again? What is it that somehow makes it seem so attractive, even after yesterdays horrific turn of events? Fortunately common sense ruled the day, and I don't think either of us was really all that keen, but I also think that neither of us would have backed out if the other had decided to go downstairs.
We watched on the TV as the first rockets went off, and the bulls charged out of the pen and up the hill. We followed their progress up to and through the town hall square, and then onward and around Dead Man's Curve, then we all dashed across to the balcony. Once again it was extraordinary to see the running masses below, as the bulls thundered along Estafeta, and through the parting crowd of people.
It seemed to be a pretty quick and clean run, and the bulls had only been slightly separated over the 825 metre length of the Encierro. However, within minutes the TV was showing highlights of the run, and there were a few nasty moments, with one guy in particular taking a bit of rough treatment from one of the trailing bulls, and ending up on a stretcher with a drip in his arm.
Another spectacular piece of footage showed a runner in a blue t-shirt, just after Dead Man's Curve, who managed to squeeze into a shallow doorway just as the one of the bull's horns ran along the wall where he had been a second ago. He shrank back as far as he could, and the tip of the horn just touched the front of his t-shirt. What an incredibly lucky escape!
I had packed my back and taken it with me to the apartment, as I had booked a bus ticket to Madrid a couple of days earlier, and I had to be at the bus station before 9 o'clock. Fond farewells were said all round, with promises to catch up again in San Diego or LA, and I headed downstairs.
The party was in full swing again already in the streets, and I made my way through the night's debris. I am both glad and sad to be leaving Pamplona. I am glad simply because I don't think I could maintain the same pace for much longer. It has been a week-long, almost non-stop party, although I have tried to be reasonably restrained, held back a little by thinning personal Euro-finances! But I am sad to, as I have had one of the most incredible weeks of my life. I have never seen partying and craziness on such a scale before, and over such an extended period.
I am also sad to say goodbye to some great friends that I have made here. Once again, I can't thank you all enough for welcoming me into your group, and allowing me to experience the week with you all. Grathias!
Pamplona video highlights. Saturday, July 11, 2009
I think that unless you have been to Pamplona during San Fermin, I will not be able to paint a vivid enough picture with words to explain just how huge and crazy and exciting the whole event is. It is the biggest celebration I have ever seen in terms of numbers of people, area the festival covers, amount of bars in every street, volume of alcohol consumed, size of rubbish piles in the morning, number of bands marching through the streets, scale of fireworks displays, and of course, the incredible excitement and danger of the main attraction.
And this takes place, not just over a few hours, or a single day, like the Tomatina that I attended last year, but goes on, absolutely non-stop for over a week. Day and night, sleep and awake, drunk and sober, terrified and elated all merge into one week long whirl of sensory overload that is hard to process.
This video, like most of my pictures, can only capture a small part of what San Fermin is, but I hope it gives you a bit of a taste. Believe me, if there is one thing you really should experience at least once in your life, this really is it.
Viva San Fermin!
And below, with kind permission from www.bullrunning.com and www.rtve.es, are the bull runs from the eight days of the festival. Day 4 is the run which resulted in the unfortunate death. I ran on days 2 and 4:-
Running of the Bulls, San Fermin, Pamplona Day 1 - Tues 7th July 2009
Running of the Bulls, San Fermin, Pamplona Day 2 - Wed 8th July 2009
Running of the Bulls, San Fermin, Pamplona Day 3 - Thur 9th July 2009
Running of the Bulls, San Fermin, Pamplona Day 4 - Fri 10th July 2009
Running of the Bulls, San Fermin, Pamplona Day 5 - Sat 11th July 2009
Running of the Bulls, San Fermin, Pamplona Day 6 - Sun 12th July 2009
Running of the Bulls, San Fermin, Pamplona Day 7 - Mon 13th July 2009
Running of the Bulls, San Fermin, Pamplona Day 8 - Tues 14th July 2009
Pamplona Spain - first bullrun at 8am on July 7th and the last at the same time on July 14th
Bullrunning Immortals
